Lee Board Work

OK, here is where I started.

 

I set up a chalk line at the right height and a certain distance from the CL of the hull. This distance is where the inner face of the lee board will pivot. The clamped boards below show how I do it.

 

Below a shot of the snap line crossing the lower mount. Note string and nut used to locate where the mount is to be cut; in this case about 1/4″ outside the wale at maximum beam.

 

Photo showing rear string mount. Same distance from the hull CL here as at the bow. Yes, it takes some repeated fiddling to get it right, but it has to BE right! Then snap the line!

 

Remember that big rectangular lower mount? Here it is trimmed down. I also did some shaping of edges later, but the photos have disappeared. More later…

 

I never needed one of these before, but with my sliding tongue extension I will need it henceforth!

Un Abrazo,

Bill

Working on a List…

Below, I had to pay to get this made; hurt but necessary if I am to have any chance of getting this thing done on time. More about this to follow…

 

I got the bow tow ring bedded in and bolted down.

Inside view of above; extra pad and bolts for U ring point. Very solid…

 

Bow breasthook/anchor cleat pad installed. I know it looks small. but the inside/lower piece along with thickened epoxy, 5 through bolts (coming soon!) and 3 x 4″ 6oz tapes bonding under to well walls ensure a strong point!

 

Mizzen mast mounts epoxied in place. I was able to correct almost all the extra aft rake during final install. Note parallelism with transom…

 

 

Spent almost a hour looking for a chalk box snap line (of which I have two, one bought here in NC) without success. Tomorrow I will buy another so I can find the first two…

Once I have that datum line parallel to the CL of the hull, I can cut off excess lower mount and layout upper mount slot.

 

Un Abrazo,

Bill

Trailer hitch

The 2″ x 2″ trailer tongue is smaller that the original carrier. but some washers fixed that! Safety chains also in place.

I certainly did more than this today, but failed to take photos. More tomorrow…

Un Abrazo,

Bill

First Mast!

OK, so it is not really a big deal, but it is a deal…   The mizzen mast from my Embers Watch (Mikesboat) fits.

 

In case you were wondering, that rake angle is as designed; well, almost. It is supposed to be parallel with the transom.

 

As you can see, it is VERY slightly raked further aft than ideal. I will try to correct that when I glue/screw it on later tomorrow.

Un Abraso,

Bill

Trailer mods!

Here is the original trailer tongue/hitch as supplied by Harbor Freight for their 1950 lb tilt trailer. With the boat loaded appropriately, the bow prevents the car truck from opening! And needless to say their is no way the boat would float on/off the trailer with that tongue. So here is what I did…

 

 

I removed the carrier.

 

 

Then inverted it to re-use the square tube. It is now parallel with the bottom of the frame members.    

All bolted up below.

 

 

Then I took the 2″ square 3/16″ wall tube I bought and inserted it into the tube and added 2 U tube brackets on the bottom of two frame members. This locks the new square tongue from lateral movement, but allows it to slide fore and aft.

Photo from the back showing the captured tongue and U brackets.

 

Got my decal/sticker numbers for the registration in the mail...

 

Here is the new towing position. It is 3′ 6″ longer that the original.

And below is the new launching tongue length. 7′ longer that the original! I sure hope this will allow me to launch and retrieve the boat without submerging my car! If absolutely needed, I COULD drill another hole for another 4′ of length, but the 2″ sq tube would only be guided by the red tube in the front. That red tube is 2 1/8″ by 2 1/4″ so the 2″ sq tongue is a little sloppy, though not as much as one might think. Might work for launching OK…

 

 

I have also drilled a 1/2″ hole vertically through the red trapezoid at the head of the original trailer carrier mount. I have a grade 8, 1/2″ bolt to drop through to lock the tongue in the towing position. I will add a 1/2″ hole set to lock the launching length as well. Thought I took a photo of that, but I cannot find it now. There is more to be done, but more later.

Un Abrazo,

Bill

Real Progress…

It was a long day, but I got a lot done. I need more days like this if I am going to make it…

Below is a shot of the anchor well. The bow cutwater is at the top. I added the triangular block and 2 x 4″ 6oz tapes over it to make a strong point for the U bolt shown. This will be mounted vertically at the bottom of the well as a tow/trailer winch point.

 

Fabricated, primed, painted and installed the starboard transom corner brace; is this considered a breasthook?

Another view of the transom corner brace…

 

Below is the glued up final assembly of the bottom of the tabernacle.  The 1/2″ steel rod is for the mast heel to set the mast rake. Pain is the ass!

 

Screwed down mock up of of the mizzen mast mounts. It took a while to get this lined up; the level says all is well, but until I can roll the boat out from under the cover, I won’t know for sure. 

Here is a close up of the slanted square hole for the mizzen mast. Looks rough, but it took a lot of work to get it to fit; good enough! 

 

I also got the clamping screws holes filled , sanded, and ready for paint or glass on the lee board mounts. Below is the  upper mount glassed on the upper side and curing for the night.

Back at it tomorrow. 

Un Abrazo,

Bill

Lee Board Pivot Lamination

A couple of shots of the laminated lower lee board pivot. Compound slanted curve very difficult to cut. I got close and have filled in with epoxy/wood flour.

Also drilled 3/4″ holes in lower mast blocks for mast heel pin. Filled with epoxy/wood flour mix and set to curing. I will drill 1/2″ holes in those plugs for pin. Forgot to take photo.

Un Abrazo,

Bill

Stuff n Stuff

So, below is the mock-up of the upper lee board guard pieces. Yesterday…

 

Today it is glued up and setting. 

 

I remade the pieces that go in front of the tabernacle posts to allow for the mast rake. They needed to be beefier.

 

I also got the gray tinted port light material locally for $40 and ordered two boat reg sticker sets for $13. Also found the papers for my Harbor Freight trailer I got 2 years ago in Atlanta and got it titled and registered here in NC; not cheap at $98!

I am feeling the pressure…

Un Abrazo,

Bill

 

 

More Foredeck/Tabernacle and Drains

Below, the drain tube (before trimming short) from the slot just below/behind the forward hatch . Any water that manages to blow under the lip of the sliding hatch will end up in a trough (see next photo) and be drained port and starboard by these two tubes.

 

Below, the dark blue tabernacle posts mounted on the cabin forward bulkhead here show the routed trough for water ingress and the tube/hole of the drain. Next photo shows the starboard side drain tube.

Starboard side drain…

 

Below, mock up of required additional pieces for the mast heel capture. Turns out (it was in the write up which I lost and got again later) that the heel of the mast must be pinned 1/2″ in front of the tabernacle posts in order to get the proper rake angle on the mast. So these pieces will have an 8″ bolt fore n aft through the posts, and a 1/2″ pin/bolt through the pieces and mast heel going port/starboard.

I am going to need a 3/8 bit 8″ long to bore that continuation of the original hole through the posts!

By the way, anyone who gets to see this design will be impressed with Jim Michalak’s prowess! I thought it would be good from the start, but she is surprising me as things take shape. I cannot wait to show her off, building warts and all!

Un Abrazo,

Bill

Foredeck Close

The foredeck is nearing completion. Just a bit of tidying up now, and applying the non slip light blue to the top surface.

Un Abrazo,

Bill