Several days….

The following is a hodgepodge of several days photos. First below, the tabernacle posts temporarily screwed to the forward cabin bulkhead. Note the bulkhead is not flat. WTF? Oh well, there is a solution… 




Solution shown below; door shims.



So, below are the tabernacle posts glued, screwed, and bolted into position. Mast is specced at 3″ so spacing here is 3 3/16″. Bolts are new type from Lowes for exterior deck construction with same coating as the deck screws. Bottom bolts will be replaced with 2″ longer ones to add an extra “pad” of wood for the 1/2″ bolt to hold the bottom of the mast. It has to be 1/2″ in front of the post’s forward edge.



I have little time for fancy at this point, but I am determined that ALL plywood edges on exterior of D’Arcy Bryn will be shielded/sealed from H2O. So here is the trim cut to fit for that at a later time. These will be 3X coated with Sikkens Cetol.



Painted hatches were installed to check continued correct function. The dark blue strip at the beam/cabin top angle is to support the aluminum slider of the aft hatch. If any weight (persons) are on it, the force will be taken up by this strip, not by the relatively soft aluminum angles/slider rails.



Cabin interior shot with low light. I am sitting on a rather high rolling mechanics stool; maybe 3″ less than a 5 gal bucket. That head clearance is at the fore hatch, which is lower than in the aft part of the cabin. Plenty of room!

IMG_20160414_190100315 - Copy


OK, now for a part Jim Michalak (and me as well) will not like! There is no way I have time before the Texas 200 in June to cast 200 lbs of lead into ingots and bolt them onto the keelson on the bottom of D’Arcy Bryn. Remember, this is supposed to be a SELF RIGHTING design. But the best I can do for this trip is put 100lbs of elevator test weights (iron) and what lead I have so far, another 100lbs, as low and centered as possible. That 2X10 beam is the main culprit in keeping all that stuff where it belongs in a capsize. I will show more later. Though not self righting in this configuration, I am confident that she will recover much better that most. The flared sides will help keep the mast/yards out of the water, and Michalak’s penchant for safety factor calculations should see to all being OK. I think the shape of the hull alone would give good stiffness when sailing, even without ballast, and would allow the typical self-rescue.




Shot of the forward part of the cabin. Sean will give it a quick sanding and primer coat. I won’t be able to finish the interior, but in a worst case scenario, I will have several sealed plastic storage boxes in there for all my necessities. When sleeping, they can go into the cockpit as needed for now.  Note the slot in the cabin top beam for the fore sliding hatch. Basically, it is the same size as the aft hatch, and they overlap, so I can have half of the slot top open at any time, and in any position. So reaching the anchor well or entering the cabin are easy.



The space between the beams is reduced to 22″by the addition of the 2X10″ beams but that is plenty of room for my legs/feet for sleeping; normally it would be about 24″.



Lee board with 1 coat of color. I have seen better finishes on many boats, but not on any of mine!



Ditto for rudder and head stock.



Some reflection for better view of satin finish on lee board.



I did get another 4.5 inches added to the motor board to accommodate my long shaft OB motor, but will have to add a photo later. Several other things in the works will follow later.

Un Abrazo,



3 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. john hargrove wright ha ha
    Apr 19, 2016 @ 22:43:16

    Love your blog and build.


    • W. P. Moffitt
      Apr 19, 2016 @ 22:57:55

      Thanks John; but you will not approve of the atrocities I may have to commit to arrive in Texas in June….


  2. Mike Bellows
    Apr 20, 2016 @ 17:50:35

    Bill–the skills you have acquired to build these things is impressive, despite your self-criticism, but what really impresses me is your passion. –Mike


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